Behind shelves lined with assorted groceries, steam rises from a back corner in excited plumes. A bearded gentleman with the step of a youth bounces between a noisy side room and the mysterious thermals, bowls in hand.

Charlie Porubsky, manager of Porubsky’s Grocery in Topeka, mans the old four-burner stove—supporting stockpots of chili filled to the brim—with steadfast grace; much like his father, the late Charlie Sr., did when he opened the establishment back in 1947.

Nestled in the “Little Russia” district, at 508 N.E. Sardou, Porubsky’s has been a mainstay among Topeka locals for its famous chili for over half a century, recently finding a broader audience with a February 2008 article in Gourmet magazine, which described the family-owned eatery as a destination for “committed chiliheads.”

To complement the renowned chili, Porubsky’s also offers cold-cut sandwiches, ham salad and cold plates consisting of sliced deli meats and cheeses.

Oh, and the pickles. Very. Hot. Pickles: perhaps just as synonymous to Porubsky’s as its chili.

With an order of pickles to go, Charlie imparts a very succinct farewell, bereft of any noticeable jest: “Be careful with those pickles. We’ve got a hot batch today.”

Upon tossing a modest segment of pickle into his mouth, Overland Park senior Jack Connor, experienced mild contortions of the face before jumping about and releasing a cathartic, “YOOP!”

“Have any more?” Connor asks, following a swift recovery.

Porubsky’s has a narrow window in which food is served, so plan accordingly: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Chili is available only from Monday through Thursday.